Enjoy the true taste of Mexico at Talavera

By Peter Laird

Finding authentic Mexican cuisine in Miami wasn’t always easy. But things change. South Miami has Poblano; Brickell Village has Rosa Mexicano. And now, finally, Coral Gables has Talavera Cocina Mexicana.

Recently opened by the talented trio behind Coconut Grove’s popular Jaguar – Eduardo “Lalo” Durazo, Martin Moreno and Oscar del Rivero – Talavera’s creative, wide-ranging menu is rooted in generations-old Mexican dishes prepared with authentic ingredients. Sorry, no Tex-Mex here.

Located on the northeast corner of Ponce and Giralda, Talavera gets its name from the beautiful glazed earthenware hand-crafted for centuries in Puebla, Mexico. Beautiful, blue-and-white Talavera plates grace the restaurant’s tables and walls, and are also available for purchase.

The day of my first visit, the restaurant was colorfully decked out for el Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead), a traditional Mexican celebration honoring loved ones who have died.

After I was seated, chips and salsa were brought to the table. But these were no ordinary chips and salsa. Cacalas – crunchy, lightly salted half-moons of toasted masa corn flour – arrived with small bowls of smooth red and green salsas that had my taste buds dancing with excitement.

Starters at Talavera range from fresh-made guacamole to quesos fundidos – flavorful melted cheeses served casserole-style with chorizo or a mix of poblano chile, mushrooms and epazote, a distinctive herb commonly used in Mexican cuisine. The guac, cool and creamy, came with cacalas and – surprise – light and crispy chicharrones (fried pork rinds).

A selection of ceviches includes snapper or shrimp served on a tostada layered with avocado puree. Both were light and satisfying. There’s also a tasty selection of soups and salads; the cream of fresh corn soup was so good I could buy it by the gallon.

Lunch specials include a dozen or so dishes all priced at $12, with several mix-and-match options for those who want to pair a cup of soup with a half-size salad, torta (sandwich), taco or quesadilla. There are also las meriendas (light meals) that include enchiladas, tacos, tortas (sandwiches) and quesadillas.

Entrees range from fresh fish and seafood to chicken, pork and beef. Three types of mole dishes offer a culinary tour of Mexico: mole de xico (chicken) from Veracruz, pipian verde (chicken or beef tenderloin) from Puebla, and mole coloradito (beef short ribs) from Oaxaca. Each was distinctively different and equally delicious.

Talavera’s signature dish is a huarache, so named because of the dish’s foundation, a handmade fresh corn masa shaped like a sandal. The lightly toasted huarache is layered with black-bean puree, lettuce, salsa verde and goat cheese, along with your choice of chili-rubbed grilled fish, shrimp, tuna, salmon, chicken or beef and a choice of sides.

Like at its sister restaurant, Jaguar, service shines at Talavera. Our server was courteous, knowledgeable and efficient. He took time to explain the concept, preparation and ingredients, and offered helpful suggestions on ordering.

With its interesting, authentic and flavorful Mexican cuisine, Talavera is sure to be a welcome addition to Coral Gables’ international dining scene.

Peter Laird is a Miami-based freelance writer and advertising/marketing consultant. He can be reached at peter@lairdcreative.com.