Don’t Cry for Me, I Went to Graziano’s

By Patrick Montoya

Graziano's is an outstanding Argentine steakhouse. From the moment you walk in the doors and are confronted by the wood-burning open spit and grill with succulent meats, spotless and bustling kitchen and wall-to-wall wines, you know you are in for an experience.

Visually, the restaurant is a treat. The spit rotates around a wood fire, usually a combination of lamb, pork and other meats. It is walled off by transparent glass for any of those who may be offended by the smell of cooked meat. The restaurant is divided into two parts by a wall of wine. The rear portion of the restaurant houses the bar. The décor is modern, understated, consisting of mostly dark wood. The bar, from my observance, has not developed into the “scene” that it deserves. It is a beautiful, wall-length bar that is underutilized, most likely because patrons are concentrating on their food.

For wine lovers, there may not be a larger wine selection in Coral Gables, save for the Biltmore. The wine list is expansive. The prices are fair. The emphasis is on South American wines. There are some real bargains, and frequent specials. The staff is knowledgeable about their wines and wine pairings.

The food is exceptional. As an Argentine restaurant, Graziano's offers delicious, heavily salted meats. The churrasco was long my favorite, only because I did not dare try anything else, for fear nothing could rival it. It was only after several visits I tried the wonderful porterhouse. The discussion of red meat stops at the porterhouse, though others have let me know all of the meats are exceptional. Graziano's also excels in sausages, including morcilla, blood sausage.

I have sampled various chicken dishes. They are excellent.

Perhaps the greatest surprise are the pasta dishes. The pasta is cooked just right and it is flavorful. Also, along the lines of pasta, many dishes are served with an outstanding mushroom risotto with thick, fresh-tasting mushrooms.

Graziano's is one of Coral Gables' gems and should not be missed. Also try Graziano's Market, located at 2301 Galiano St. It is a great stop for Argentine products, wines, cheeses and meats and has wonderful empanadas and breakfast and lunch specials.